Article by Ian Mills, Big Blue Explorer Dive Guide
TDI Trimix & Rebreather Instructor #12018
Photos by Paul Collins, Big Blue Explorer Boat Manager
TDI Advanced Nitrox & Deco Proceedures Instructor #12824
Palau. Since Cousteau first visited over half a century ago, the reputation of this tiny Pacific Island nation as aworld-class diving destination has endured. While the charm of its twenty thousand inhabitants, and the beauty of the Rock Islands appeal to many, its star attractions are to be found below the waterline. Blue Corner, German Channel, Blue Holes and Ulong Channel; all these dive sites offer exhilarating rides and close encounters with the local ‘megafauna’. Look beyond these more famous dive sites and there are still truly stunning coral gardens, drop-offs, points, channels, walls and wrecks to explore. That Palau has so much to offer the recreational diver is explained in part by its location; it lies just northeast of an area called the Coral Triangle. This area, covering Indonesia, the Philippines, Papua New Guinea and parts of Malaysia, contains the highest diversity of marine species in the world.
However, one label that is never attached to Palau is that of a destination for technical diving. It is possible to suggest a number of reasons for this; its remoteness, the resulting difficulty in obtaining the necessary equipment and the lack of technical diving experience on the island. Over recent years the growth in numbers of the more adventurous diver, looking to push beyond the limits of recreational diving, is a trend that has marked the scuba diving industry the world over. At the forefront of this mini ‘revolution’ is the huge growth in the use of closed circuit rebreathers or CCR.
The growth of technical diving
While little known to many people, the development and use of CCR far pre-dates the work of Gagnan and Cousteau in the 1960’s when they introduced the ‘Aqualung’ (or regulator) that opened the underwater realm to the world’s imagination. Before the turn of the twentieth century, the use of closed circuit technology had been widely explored, albeit often in military applications. Work on these devices has never ceased and today you can find a large number of different rebreathers or ‘units’ on the market. Despite the misunderstandings that often surround CCR, the benefits they offer cannot be ignored, especially for anyone looking to venture deeper and longer.
Palau in Depth
In recognising these changes, and having long known of the diving Palau has to offer, Expedition Fleet has become one 
of the first operators to offer full technical diving support and services to its customers. In this first season alone, we have been able to experience dives that are not being offered by anyone else in Palau; two and a half hours exploring inside the Japanese Imperial Fleet Wrecks, dives in excess of 80 meters on stunning dropoffs with eagle rays flying past, or on the pinnacles below Siaes Tunnel usually out of reach. Our next adventure will be to explore the wreck of the USS Perry, an American minesweeper sunk off the island of Anguar by a Japanese mine during World War Two. And the exploration will continue beyond this! We have heard rumours of thresher shark cleaning stations deep below Blue Corner. While this remains a rumour, it is another exciting prospect that we can look to in the near future.
Expedition Fleet gears up for technical diving
Anyone who is familiar with technical diving will be aware of the amount of equipment that is involved, both for open and closed circuit. Furthermore, in our efforts to push the limits of our experience a little further, new approaches are required. Meticulous attention to detail and planning must become second nature and the right equipment for the job is essential. One of Palau’s drawbacks, is that given its size and relative remoteness, getting hold of more unusual diving equipment and supplies can be difficult and will inevitably come at a higher cost. Expedition Fleet has taken the steps needed to make the logistics and organisation for this type of diving manageable. Based on our personal experience, we have worked to ensure that those wanting to visit Palau for technical diving can do so without weeks of planning. Furthermore, and perhaps most importantly, we are proud to say that we have the only two full time guides in Palau that are experienced technical divers (and instructors) themselves. Expedition Fleet customers can therefore feel assured that they have experts on hand to support, advise and guide them – no less that what you should expect from any week of diving.
Logistics and Support
Big Blue Explorer is set up to accommodate 12 technical diving guests. All diving takes place from two chase boats that are all equipped with individual kitting up benches and plenty of spaces for stage cylinders and other kit. For those diving on open circuit, we have twelve twinsets available for hire. All are banded and have isolation manifolds. For those diving on CCR, two and three litre oxygen and diluent bottles can be supplied. To complement all technical divers, we have as many oxygen ready 80 and 40 cubic foot stage cylinders as you require. Naturally all are set up with stage straps ready for use.
With regard to the ‘consumables’ Big Blue is one of only two dive operations in Palau that has a booster pump available. This enables our qualified gas blenders to mix whatever trimix or nitrox fills you require during your stay. As you would expect, oxygen and helium analysers are available on board. Given that CCR diving in particular is new to Palau, the availability of CO2 absorbent was one of the biggest obstacles that the Big Blue team faced in setting up this diving. Through persistence, driven not least by our own desire to explore new places, we have managed to establish a regular supply of Sofnolimeä (797 Grade). Other grades can be supplied, but obtaining them would require advance warning.
Finally, we realise how easily a long awaited week of diving can be undone when your equipment lets you down. Wewant to ensure that your experience with us passes without a hitch, and part of ensuring this is to offer the services of our two full time equipment service technicians. Big Blue is fully equipped with all the tools, cleaners and service kits that allow us to say with confidence that your week will run smoothly
What next?
Bookings are now being taken for the 2011/12 season here in Palau, and the response so far has been encouraging.
Further information on technical diving can be obtained by contacting the Expedition Fleet head office. We aim to cater your stay with us to your exact requirements, in terms of the diving and equipment you expect. As such prices can only be made available on request. If you are interested in joining us for a week of unforgettable diving, the first step is to contact us with an idea of when you would like to visit, and what diving you would hope to be doing. From there, your enquiry will be handled in person by one of our technical diving team. Remember, Palau has something for everyone! Let us know your diving experience and expectations, we will arrange an itinerary to suit.
We look forward to hearing from you soon… In the meantime, we will be busy exploring new sites for you to dive when you come to visit!
April 09-16, 2011
by Boat Manager
Saturday saw our first 3 guests arrive in the morning, kit up and first dive on the Helmet Wreck where the visibility was exceptional. As we descended we could see the entire ship and spent 45 minutes exploring all the nooks and crannies. Saturday afternoon saw the rest of the guests come in from Taiwan so with our full compliment of guests we were ready for the week ahead !!
Sunday morning broke to bright sunshine and flat seas. We left for the German Channel by chase boat and Big Blue proceeded to the German Channel on the outside
of the barrier reef which would take her about 4 hours, by which time we would have done our first 2 dives. First dive was the German Channel where we marvelled at 2 of the resident mantas feeding in the blue water just off the reef. Next was Big Drop off, a spectacular wall dive, and as we surfaced we saw the Big Blue coming to a stop pt our mooring . . . . Great timing again !! The rest of the day was spent at New Drop off where we practised out ‘hooking’ technique ready for the week ahead and a dusk dive at Negebus Coral Gardens.
Monday was a full day, 5 dives, where we visited Blue Corner, and were not disappointed, Dexters Wall, Turtle Wall and Nemelis Coral Garden. Tuesday we headed to Peleliu for fast currents, lots of sharks and awesome drop off’s into the deep blue. Many of the uests decided to make the land tour to visit the historic sites and have a break from diving for a few hours!!!
Wednesday started with Blue Holes, always a great wake up dive!! and followed with Turtle Cove, Blue Corner and one last chance to dive German Channel again though on this occasion no Mantas but around 20 baby Grey Reef sharks hunting in the shallow reef crest area!!
Thursday saw us head for Siaes Tunnel and then Ulong Channel. One guest remarked in his 500+ dives that this was the best dive of his life !!! I have to agree with him that this is a very special dive !! We met Big Blue at Ngerchong anchorage and in the afternoon dived Ngerchong inside and outside and enjoyed 50m+ visibility . . .
Friday morning and the last diving day for all the guests. We started with a visit to Jelly Fish lake at 8.30 and had the ake to ourselves which was nice. We then headed back to Koror through the rock islands and dived the Iro Maru on the way back. We met Big Blue back in port, had lunch and then finished the week, by unanimous request, back at Ulong Channel which was outstanding yet again !!
Saturday morning came and the end of the week for all our guests. They all left Big Blue happy and promising to come back in December for another week of diving some of the best dive sites in the world. We will all look forward to seeing them again in December . . . . .
February 26 – March 04, 2011
by Boat Manager
Saturday saw a full boat awake to a beautiful Palau morning and the egger anticipation of what was to come. After the usual paperwork, boat briefing and kit set up we managed to make 3 dives at sites close to Malakal Port. With all the peoples equipment checked, weight checks all done we were ready to depart the following morning for the German Channel area and some of the best diving Palau has to offer.
The Big Blue Explorer departed Malakal Harbour on Sunday to make the 4 to 5 hour journey on the outside of the reef to the German Channel whilst all the guests
took the 50 minute fast chase boat ride inside the lagoon area to the first dives. The German Channel lived up to its reputation as the Manta dive site with the first sightings of the week, Turtle wall was the usual great experience with many turtles and all the usual fish life and the other sights all proved to be a big hit with the guests.
Monday saw our first visit to Blue Corner and it did not disappoint !! We got the usual comments from most of the guests after the dive; “When are we going back there?” and we promised that we would return after we had visited a few more dive sites. The rest of the day was great and Monday saw the first night dive for the guests and was a first for at least 2 people !!
Tuesday we sailed to Peleliu, departing from the German Channel area at 5.30AM to make an early morning dive at the Peleliu Cut. A very strong current greeted us as did the many Grey Reef Sharks that are resident at the site. Next was Yellow Wall, a spectacular wall drift dive. After lunch a number of guest went on the land tour of the historic sites at Peleliu whilst the remainder dived Peleliu Wall. After the 4th dive we sailed back to the German Channel area and another night dive.
Wednesday started with Blue Holes which was breathtaking as usual and was followed by a few wall dives and another Blue Corner, after many requests !! As Wednesday is the last opportunity for a night dive nearly all guests took the opportunity and we were pleasantly surprised by what we found underwater.
Thursday Morning saw the 2 chase boats leave for Ulong Channel at 7.00AM. We were greeted by more sharks than usual hunting a large ball of scad, what a great start to the morning !! Second dive was Shark City but it appeared that most of the sharks in the area had headed over to Ulong Channel for breakfast as we only saw a handful of sharks but many of the usual reef fish we come to expect. After lunch we took in a wreck dive and then finished off the diving week on Jakes Sea Plane, a must if you come to Palau!!
Friday morning saw the chase boats leave for Jelly Fish Lake and Milky Way at 9.00AM, back at 1.00PM for Lunch and then frantic packing ready for the flights home on Friday night.
All in all a great week, as usual, with everyone wishing they had another week in Palau! Guess they will have to come back and see us again soon!!
November 20-27, 2010
by Axelle Jorcin, Dive Master on Big Blue Explorer
Saturday, 11am it had been a short night, but everyone is eager to get diving. After the boat brief and the setting up of the kits, the group is split onto the two chase boats. Manta Ray takes 11 guests to explore Helmet wreck, a Japanese wreck that was found in 1989 with many helmets on board, hence the name! Devil Ray takes 10 guests to Short Drop Off, just outside Malakal Harbor. Those check out dives are great for anyone who hasn’t dived in a while, or guests that wish to check their equipment for the coming week. In the afternoon, we dive Chandelier Cave and explore the cathedral-like chambers that were created by water infiltration. Finally, Mandarin Fish Lake is a great opportunity to witness Mandarin fishes searching for their mating partner for that night…
Sunday. Big Blue Explorer departs Malakal at 05.30 am, destination German Channel, where we will spend most of the week. It’s hard to decide where to dive first… should we go for the thrill of Blue Corner straight away? We decide to go for a slower drift dive, to give everyone a chance to practice hooking before THE corner… We decide on a dive on New Drop Off, where the drift isn’t too strong, but enough for the sharks to be cruising next to the edge of the reef… Many turtles, it looks like they also were looking for a mating partner!
As we are in a full moon week, the currents are pretty strong… and the fish tend to aggregate along the reef. At Turtle Cove, we see many turtles again and also a big school of black snapper.
The highlight of the day is definitely the dusk dive on German Channel. Most of the day boats have gone back, so it is just us on the dive site… and 9 mantas! It seems as if they are dancing… They keep looping in front of us, to feed of course, but I am wondering if they aren’t also showing off! We can’t leave… but after an 80 minutes dive, air is starting to get low, so we ascend to our safety stop and wave the mantas goodbye…
Monday. The mantas were such an amazing sight that we decide to go for a dawn dive, hoping they will be back on German Channel. Everyone looks pretty sleepy, especially those that went for a night dive the night before! But after a quick coffee, we manage to hit the water at 06:00am… and the mantas are here! a couple only, but still majestic… The grey reef sharks are still hunting from the night, together with the trevallies and a few huge groupers. Difficult to know where to look! After a well deserved big breakfast and a short nap, we decide to go for the Blue Holes AND Blue Corner… the current should be right… So after descending into the blue holes, with flashes from the many cameramen capturing the silhouettes of divers in the blue light of the holes, we slowly drift towards the corner. And this first visit on Blue Corner isn’t disappointing… We hook on the outgoing side, and admire the grey reef and white tip sharks cruising by. One look behind us, and there is the huge resident napoleon fish that came to say hi! This quick introduction at Blue Corner is followed by a full dive on Blue Corner. That gives us plenty of time to watch the sharks drifting by and sometimes snapping at something they fancy snacking on! It’s difficult to say if they’re successful or not! It all goes so quick! Just behind us, Mr. Napoleon is still looking on. A school of yellow fin barracudas are staying on top of the sand channels, slightly protected from the strong currents found on the edges of the reef. After 45 minutes, we unhook and drift slowly along the plateau and through a school of great barracudas.
Tuesday. Big Blue Explorer goes down to Peleliu Island. This corner is famous for its raging currents. After a thorough briefing, the divers head to Peleliu Cut. Everyone is excited and slightly nervous in anticipation of the currents! But… today it is only mild. Too early? too late? It’s difficult to say on this dive site where the oceanic currents always leave you guessing as to what they will do today. Fortunately, the sharks and the schools of black snappers and barracudas are still about. Yellow wall, on the other side of the island, does keep its promise. A very nice drift on a wall covered by soft corals, accompanied by sharks and trevallies… a great dive! We end our Peleliu excursion with a dive on Shipwreck point. No shipwrecks unfortunately, but we spot an eagle ray, a couple of turtles, and admire a beautiful coral garden on this dive site – one that is not often visited by other dive operations.
Wednesday. Our last day in the German Channel area. German Channel or Blue Corner? Both, and twice! Our guests just can’t get enough! A dive through the Virgin Blue Hole is also enjoyed by all.
Thursday. Another early morning, we need to catch the tide at Ulong Channel. Everyone is ready to go by 0630am, which is quite an achievement! Our first dive on Ulong Channel is simply amazing. A short drift along the edge to arrive at the mouth of the channel, where we hook to watch again more sharks… After 20 minutes, we decide to drift into the channel. The corals here are absolutely stunning. There are so many different species, the colors are staggering. We follow the grey reefs as they are hunting a school of scads into the channel. We spot a few giant clams and the hundreds of spotted garden eels. And a surprise for us: a baby hammerhead is here, at the end of the channel!!! We watch it as it swims above us and disappears into the blue… a short moment, but very special!
The last dive of the week is on the Iro Maru, a Japanese tanker that lies flat in 40m of water. It’s a great wreck that can be explored by both recreational and technical divers. This week, we stay on the top deck, 25 meters deep, to have as much time as possible to explore this 143 meter long wreck. We come up slowly around the towers which are covered with anemones.
Friday. The last day of the trip. We wait for the rain to stop, as luckily it never rains for long in Palau. We then head for Jellyfish Lake. It’s one of the only places where you can swim with 8 million jellyfishes without being stung! And finally, after this exhausting week, a treat for the ladies (the men liked it too!): a natural spa session at the Milky Way… the sand in this lagoon has transformed into a white mud that has beneficial effects to the skin. But it turned out to be a very fun photo session!
That’s the end… Our guests have to go to the airport for the late Manila flight. It’s hard every time to say goodbye to people you’ve had such a good time with! All the crew wishes they will come back soon!
October 30 – November 06
by Paul Collins, Boat Manager Big Blue Explorer
The 31st October saw the Big Blue leave port to head for the German Channel mooring where our 12 American guests would start to enjoy their diving extravaganza. The 4 hour journey was a peaceful ride where we completed the paperwork, enjoyed the beautiful scenery and let the anticipation of the diving to come for the following week build!
The first day took in Negebus Coral Gardens where we found the leaf scorpion fish and a host of other macro subjects. New Drop off provided the first experience of the currents Palau has to offer divers and gave the guests the opportunity for their first use of the reef hook which were allegedly first used in Palau.
Monday started with the most perfect sunrise and the prospect of diving some of the most famous sites Palau has to offer. Blue Holes was first where we descended down the shafts enjoying the ethereal light and the wonders this cavern has to offer. German Channel next dive where we searched for the Mantas and enjoyed the beautiful coral garden and then Blue Corner which gave us close encounters with the resident Grey Reef Sharks, the Big Eyed Jacks and the many other residents of this most famous dive site. The day ended with a dusk dive at Barnhams Wall with Scorpion Fish and many other residents whom were waking up ready for their nights hunting.
Tuesday saw the Big Blue move to Peleliu where we anticipated high current diving as this location is renowned for the strong currents. The first dive was quite rare as the currents we encountered were not that strong but the life on Peleliu Cut did not disappoint. Yellow Wall next followed by Orange Beach were both beautiful dives offering up sharks, eagle rays, jacks, morays and many more. The final dive of the day was a dusk dive at German Channel where we watched 5 large female Mantas feeding for over 20 minutes before finishing the dive drifting through the coral garden area.
Wednesday saw Virgin Blue Holes, Blue Corner, Big Drop Off and another dusk dive at German Channel. All provided good currents, lots of action and wonderful memories for all diving. The highlight had to be the 7 Mantas feeding at German Channel with many very close passes by these majestic animals.
As the end of the week drew ever closer guests were joking what else could we offer them that would rival what they had seen already? So we took them to Ulong Channel and they were not to be disappointed. 20 minutes in the mouth of the Channel saw many close encounters with the sharks and then the drift through the channel was as wonderful as ever. 4 guests came out saying that they had never seen such wonder corals and life anywhere in the world and asked why we had not dived this site all week, every dive!
The final day saw a number of the sites local to Malakal being visited; The Iro wreck, Jelly fish lake, Light house Channel and the Helmet wreck.
The guests departed on Saturday morning with memories and experiences that they will keep with them for ever. They all commented on the wonderful week that they had had aboard the Big Blue and on the quality of the diving in Palau. We hope to see them back sometime soon . . . .
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